Engagement Rings in the UK: Choosing a Coloured Gemstone

Tourmaline

Tourmaline isn’t one stone but a family, and the elbaite variety gives most jewellery colours, including green and pink. Many tourmalines show pleochroism, meaning they flash different shades depending on the viewing angle. It’s charming if you like movement.

At 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, though, tourmaline is the most vulnerable of the three to wear. A bezel or halo helps, and it makes more sense for an office worker than a carpenter. It also attracts dust when warm, so expect to wipe it more often.

Which Setting and Metal Best Protect a Coloured Stone?

Bezel and halo settings protect coloured stones best because they shield the girdle, the edge where chips usually start. Claw settings show more of the gem but leave it exposed. Choose a low profile, and treat the metal as a colour decision as much as a durability one.

Solitaire, halo or three-stone?

A solitaire is classic and lets the colour speak, but it leaves the stone more exposed. A halo of small diamonds adds sparkle and a protective rim, and it can make a paler stone look more vivid. A three-stone style spreads the visual interest and suits the longer, narrower cuts that tourmaline often takes.

My own preference? A halo for emerald, a solitaire for a well-saturated aquamarine, and a bezel for any stone under 7.5 that will see daily knocks.

Gold carats and platinum

In the UK, 9ct gold is 37.5 per cent pure, and 18ct is 75 per cent. Platinum is usually 95 per cent. Nine-carat gold is tougher and cheaper, though it’s less rich in colour, while 18ct feels warmer and heavier. Platinum is dense and hard-wearing, but it’s the priciest.

For a green stone, yellow or rose gold often flatters. Blues tend to sing against white metals.

Hallmarks: what they actually tell you

Under the Hallmarking Act 1973, gold items above 1 gram and platinum items above 0.5 grams sold in the UK must carry a hallmark applied by an Assay Office. There are four: London, Birmingham, Sheffield and Edinburgh. The mark confirms the metal’s purity, not the quality of the gemstone.

Frequently Asked Questions

1.      Are coloured gemstones good for engagement rings in the UK?

Yes, provided you choose carefully. Sapphire, emerald and aquamarine engagement rings have a long history in fine jewellery, and Princess Diana’s 1981 sapphire ring from Garrard is a famous example. Prioritise hardness above 7, choose a protective setting, and be honest about how frequently the ring will be worn.

2.      Is tourmaline durable enough for everyday wear?

Mostly, with a caveat. At 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, tourmaline resists most daily scratches but can chip if knocked hard. Using a bezel or halo setting can help protect the ring, and removing it during gym sessions, gardening, and cleaning will significantly extend its lifespan.

3.      How do I clean an emerald ring safely?

Use lukewarm water, a drop of mild washing-up liquid and a soft brush, then dry with a lint-free cloth. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners and steam, because they can pull oil out of fractures or worsen them. Have a jeweller check the claws once a year.

4.      Does a coloured stone cost less than a diamond?

Usually, yes, at the same size. Aquamarine and tourmaline are often considerably cheaper than a diamond of similar visible size, though top-colour emeralds can rival or exceed them. Cost depends on colour quality, clarity, cut and origin, so compare stones individually.

Summing up

To sum up, choosing among engagement rings UK buyers see every day isn’t about picking the safest stone; it’s about matching a gem to a life. Emerald brings depth but needs care, aquamarine is clean and easy going, and tourmaline offers colour and value with a softer edge. Look at hardness, then toughness, and then the setting. Ask about treatments, check the hallmark, and know your rights. A coloured stone won’t resell like a diamond, but it can be much more personal. Choose the one you’d still be delighted by in thirty years.